Getting There
Jeju is accessible by flight (1 hour from Seoul Gimpo or Incheon, ₩60,000–130,000 one way) or by ferry from Mokpo or Wando on the south coast (4–7 hours, cheaper but slower). Flying is the practical choice for most visitors.
Jeju International Airport is small and manageable. Car rental is strongly recommended — public buses exist but are slow and infrequent. Most rental cars start at ₩50,000–80,000/day. An international driving permit is required for foreign visitors.
Hallasan: The Volcano at the Center
Hallasan (1,950m) is the highest peak in South Korea and the dominant feature of the island. Two main trails to the summit: Seongpanak (longer, more gradual, 9.6km one way) and Gwaneumsa (steeper, more dramatic, 8.7km). Both require an early start — the summit trail closes at 12:00 (Seongpanak) or 12:30 (Gwaneumsa). Plan for a 6–7 hour round trip.
The summit crater lake (Baengnokdam) is one of the most striking sights in Korea. Weather changes fast — bring layers even in summer.
The Olle Trails
Jeju Olle is a network of 26 coastal and inland walking trails totaling 437km around the island. Each trail takes 3–6 hours. Trail 7 (between Seogwipo and Wolljeongri beach) and Trail 1 (east coast near Seongsan) are the most scenic. Flat walking, excellent coastal views, and manageable even without Korean language skills (the trails are well marked with blue and orange arrows).
Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak)
A 182m tuff cone rising from the ocean on Jeju's east coast, formed from a single volcanic eruption. The crater at the top is remarkably well-preserved. The sunrise here is genuinely spectacular — arrive before 5am in summer to get a spot. Entry ₩5,000.
Food: What Jeju Is Known For
Heuk dwaeji (black pork) — Jeju's native black pigs produce richly flavored pork. Korean BBQ with heuk dwaeji is the essential Jeju meal. Budget ₩18,000–25,000 per portion.
Haenyeo (diving women) seafood — Traditional free-diving fisherwomen still operate around Jeju. Their seafood stalls (especially at Hamdeok and Jungmun beaches) sell fresh abalone, sea cucumber, and urchin. The abalone porridge (전복죽) is a Jeju classic.
Hallabong citrus — A mandarin variety developed on Jeju. Sold fresh and in every form of dessert and drink. Try the fresh juice at roadside stands.
How Many Days?
2 days: enough for Hallasan + Seongsan + good meals. 3–4 days: adds Olle trails, the west coast (Hyeopjae Beach, Biyangdo Island), and more leisurely exploration. More than 4 days only if hiking is a priority.
